Can you believe it's nearly 2014?
The date still sounds so futuristic to me!
So looking forward to the New Year, here's what's coming from Mercian
Maiden:
- A Monthly Tutorial
Let's get crafty! Each month there will be a simple tutorial for you
to follow to make your own fantastic jewellery!
- A Monthly Legend
Talking a bit about a myth, legend or story, and how to incorporate it into
your art.
- Guest Posts
I've got a couple of guests, and hopefully will get a few more who will be
bringing you news from their crafting worlds!
- Shop Updates
About the new items that I make for the shop, or discussions on prototypes
for possible future items!
- Materials and Tools
There will be a few posts on various materials and tools throughout the
year, which will hopefully get some good discussion going.
In the meantime, Merry Christmas, and I'll see you in the New Year! :)
Monday, 23 December 2013
Thursday, 12 December 2013
Rediscovering Fimo (and Salt Dough!)
When I was little, I got one of those sets - beads and buttons. It came with some findings, varnish and little blocks of Fimo. I had a lot of fun with it; I think I still have the little cat face I made somewhere!
A few years ago, I wanted to have a go with some clay. But it was so troublesome, you needed a kiln, it was hard to come by... it was then that I discovered air dry clay.
I hated it.
I gave it a couple of goes, and made some passable models, but I found it to be like trying to stick bits of soap together. (Since then my sister has made some awesome models with it, and tells me I should give it another go, but with simpler designs. So perhaps a post on that will appear in the future!)
It never crossed my mind to pick up some Fimo.
Then I came across some fantastic models made of something called "polymer clay".
"What is this polymer clay?" I wondered.
I looked it up. It was Fimo! Well, they were actually using Super Sculpey, but the same as vacuum cleaners get called Hoovers, I tend to use the brand name generically. I'll try to stop doing that.
This year I decided to get some, just for fun and start making. I'm still learning new techniques all of the time, and I've been pleased with some of the results. Some of the pieces even made it to my shop.
So although it wasn't featured in the "Basic Materials and Tools" post, it is likely to crop up in some future tutorials. I'll probably do a post on polymer clay basics in the near future!
In the meantime, it's nearly Christmas, and all this talk on modelling has probably made you want to do some making. I made this poinsettia decoration for my Christmas tree out of Red Glitter Fimo Effect and Sun Yellow and Emerald Fimo Soft.
You may not have some Fimo in the house right now, but it's likely that you'll have the ingredients for salt dough - the perfect alternative for instant Christmas tree decorations!
Ingredients:
1/2 cup salt
1/2 cup water
1 cup plain flour
For baking and decorating:
Greaseproof paper
Paint
Glitter (optional)
Glue (optional)
Thread/ribbon
Put the Salt and Flour into a mixing bowl.
Gradually add the water, mixing with a wooden spoon as you go.
Turn the dough out onto a clean surface, and knead until you have the right consistency for making shapes - if it's too sticky, add more flour. Too dry? Add more water! (This can take a while; you may have to knead for up to 10 minutes!)
Now use your dough to make whatever you want! It is softer than clay, so you may not be able to do anything super fancy, but simple cookie cutter shapes, or models will work. (I once made a triceratops out of salt dough!) You can use a little olive oil to moisturise the dough if it starts to dry too much while you are working.
Once you have your decorations, you can either dry them in the microwave or the oven.
For the microwave:
Put them onto a layer of greaseproof paper, on a plate.
They will take 2 to 3 minutes.
(I have never tried this method of drying salt dough, so I'd love to hear how they come out.)
For the Oven
Preheat oven to 120C
Put your shapes/models onto a greaseproof sheet of paper on a baking tray.
Dry for 2 and 1/2 hours.
Your shapes/models should now be firm and dry. You can pain your models with almost any type of paint (acrylics are good), stick glitter to them, sequins - whatever you like!
Once they are dry, thread a ribbon or thread to hang them by, and decorate your tree.
Have fun!
A few years ago, I wanted to have a go with some clay. But it was so troublesome, you needed a kiln, it was hard to come by... it was then that I discovered air dry clay.
I hated it.
I gave it a couple of goes, and made some passable models, but I found it to be like trying to stick bits of soap together. (Since then my sister has made some awesome models with it, and tells me I should give it another go, but with simpler designs. So perhaps a post on that will appear in the future!)
It never crossed my mind to pick up some Fimo.
Then I came across some fantastic models made of something called "polymer clay".
"What is this polymer clay?" I wondered.
I looked it up. It was Fimo! Well, they were actually using Super Sculpey, but the same as vacuum cleaners get called Hoovers, I tend to use the brand name generically. I'll try to stop doing that.
This year I decided to get some, just for fun and start making. I'm still learning new techniques all of the time, and I've been pleased with some of the results. Some of the pieces even made it to my shop.
So although it wasn't featured in the "Basic Materials and Tools" post, it is likely to crop up in some future tutorials. I'll probably do a post on polymer clay basics in the near future!
In the meantime, it's nearly Christmas, and all this talk on modelling has probably made you want to do some making. I made this poinsettia decoration for my Christmas tree out of Red Glitter Fimo Effect and Sun Yellow and Emerald Fimo Soft.
 |
| Glittery bit! Woooo! |
You may not have some Fimo in the house right now, but it's likely that you'll have the ingredients for salt dough - the perfect alternative for instant Christmas tree decorations!
Ingredients:
1/2 cup salt
1/2 cup water
1 cup plain flour
For baking and decorating:
Greaseproof paper
Paint
Glitter (optional)
Glue (optional)
Thread/ribbon
Put the Salt and Flour into a mixing bowl.
Gradually add the water, mixing with a wooden spoon as you go.
Turn the dough out onto a clean surface, and knead until you have the right consistency for making shapes - if it's too sticky, add more flour. Too dry? Add more water! (This can take a while; you may have to knead for up to 10 minutes!)
Now use your dough to make whatever you want! It is softer than clay, so you may not be able to do anything super fancy, but simple cookie cutter shapes, or models will work. (I once made a triceratops out of salt dough!) You can use a little olive oil to moisturise the dough if it starts to dry too much while you are working.
Once you have your decorations, you can either dry them in the microwave or the oven.
For the microwave:
Put them onto a layer of greaseproof paper, on a plate.
They will take 2 to 3 minutes.
(I have never tried this method of drying salt dough, so I'd love to hear how they come out.)
For the Oven
Preheat oven to 120C
Put your shapes/models onto a greaseproof sheet of paper on a baking tray.
Dry for 2 and 1/2 hours.
Your shapes/models should now be firm and dry. You can pain your models with almost any type of paint (acrylics are good), stick glitter to them, sequins - whatever you like!
Once they are dry, thread a ribbon or thread to hang them by, and decorate your tree.
Have fun!
Monday, 2 December 2013
Tutorial - How to make a Festive Fairy Nest!
Sometimes when you are working away on your wire projects, you'll end up with some scrap wire.
Although there will be nothing wrong with the wire in itself, it will be so bent out of shape you just can't possibly use it for a project... or can you?
Here is an easy little project which uses up those scraps to make some cute earrings!
To make your Fairy Nest Earrings:
(You will also need some jump rings to attach the earhooks - I forgot to put them in the picture!)
This wire I used was left over from prototypes for my Holly Sea Glass necklace.
They already had wrapped loops in them from which I could hang the earring hooks, but if your scraps are not yet joined, you will need to make a wrapped loop in one part, and twist any pieces of wire that you are using together. Your wire lengths will need to be at least 2" (5cm) to work, and you will need a longer piece for the final step.
Step1: If you are working from a wrap, use your wire cutters to open them. You will need at least one piece of long wire with an open end.
If you are working from lengths, create a wrapped loop halfway along the longest piece of wire. Attach your other pieces under the loop using twists - don't worry if they slide a little, we'll fix that in the next step!
Step 2: Leaving your long piece of wire (in which the loop is formed) to one side, use your round nosed pliers to start to twist the other pieces up into a round bundle.
You may also find it helps you use your fingers to do this, but be careful of any sharp ends!
Don't bundle the wire too tightly, but this is where you can work loops over each other to hold the wire scraps securely.
Tips: Try not to bend the wire backwards and forwards too much if you are using pieces that have already been bent before, as this can weaken it.
Make sure you tuck any cut ends into the centre of your bundle so you end up with a smooth ball.
Step 3: Now for the fun part! Thread some seed beads onto your last length of wire. (These are the Fairies that will be flying around the nest!)
Step 4: Using your round nose pliers wrap the final piece of wire around the outside of your bundle, spacing the beads as you go.
Step 5: Repeat with another set of wire - or two if you want to make a matching pendent! It is entirely up to you, and how much scrap wire you want to use up! Be careful to check when you make your bundle that it is of an even size to your first nest.
Step 6: Using your jump rings, attach your earring hooks to the loops.... and you're done!
Tips: The size of the earrings will depend on how much wire you use and how tightly you wrap it. Why not try different amounts to make a bigger Fairy Nest?
I chose to use some multicoloured glass beads for my fairies, as they contrasted nicely with the dark green of the wire, and lent it a festive air, however your Fair Nest can be whatever colour you want it to be. Perhaps try out some silver beads with gold wire for an elegant look... experiment with whatever you have! :)
I hope you've enjoyed this tutorial, and look out for more coming in the new year!
Although there will be nothing wrong with the wire in itself, it will be so bent out of shape you just can't possibly use it for a project... or can you?
Here is an easy little project which uses up those scraps to make some cute earrings!
To make your Fairy Nest Earrings:
This wire I used was left over from prototypes for my Holly Sea Glass necklace.
They already had wrapped loops in them from which I could hang the earring hooks, but if your scraps are not yet joined, you will need to make a wrapped loop in one part, and twist any pieces of wire that you are using together. Your wire lengths will need to be at least 2" (5cm) to work, and you will need a longer piece for the final step.
Step1: If you are working from a wrap, use your wire cutters to open them. You will need at least one piece of long wire with an open end.
If you are working from lengths, create a wrapped loop halfway along the longest piece of wire. Attach your other pieces under the loop using twists - don't worry if they slide a little, we'll fix that in the next step!
Step 2: Leaving your long piece of wire (in which the loop is formed) to one side, use your round nosed pliers to start to twist the other pieces up into a round bundle.
You may also find it helps you use your fingers to do this, but be careful of any sharp ends!
Don't bundle the wire too tightly, but this is where you can work loops over each other to hold the wire scraps securely.
Tips: Try not to bend the wire backwards and forwards too much if you are using pieces that have already been bent before, as this can weaken it.
Make sure you tuck any cut ends into the centre of your bundle so you end up with a smooth ball.
Step 3: Now for the fun part! Thread some seed beads onto your last length of wire. (These are the Fairies that will be flying around the nest!)
Step 4: Using your round nose pliers wrap the final piece of wire around the outside of your bundle, spacing the beads as you go.
Step 5: Repeat with another set of wire - or two if you want to make a matching pendent! It is entirely up to you, and how much scrap wire you want to use up! Be careful to check when you make your bundle that it is of an even size to your first nest.
Step 6: Using your jump rings, attach your earring hooks to the loops.... and you're done!
I chose to use some multicoloured glass beads for my fairies, as they contrasted nicely with the dark green of the wire, and lent it a festive air, however your Fair Nest can be whatever colour you want it to be. Perhaps try out some silver beads with gold wire for an elegant look... experiment with whatever you have! :)
I hope you've enjoyed this tutorial, and look out for more coming in the new year!
Thursday, 28 November 2013
Opening and Closing Jump Rings
How to open and close a Jump Ring
You will need: Round nose pliers, flat nose pliers, and a jump ring!
Grip the jump ring with your pliers either side of the cut in the ring.
Apply gentle pressure to open the ring sideways by twisting it (see picture) - never pull the ends of the ring directly apart, as this will weaken the ring and can distort the shape.
You can now place your jump ring onto your creation to hold dangles, clasps and other components in place.
To close the ring, reverse the steps, gently pushing the ring back together.
You will need: Round nose pliers, flat nose pliers, and a jump ring!
Grip the jump ring with your pliers either side of the cut in the ring.
Apply gentle pressure to open the ring sideways by twisting it (see picture) - never pull the ends of the ring directly apart, as this will weaken the ring and can distort the shape.
You can now place your jump ring onto your creation to hold dangles, clasps and other components in place.
To close the ring, reverse the steps, gently pushing the ring back together.
Tuesday, 26 November 2013
Making a Wrapped Loop
How to make a Wrapped Loop
1. You will need: Round nose pliers.
2. Grip the wire with your pliers, and make a 90 degree bend. Remember you will need to leave enough wire for a tail to make the wrap.
3. You may need to change the grip of your pliers - position them to the size you want your loop to be, and then continue to pull the wire into a loop.
4. Grip the tail of the wire, and wrap it around the base of the loop.
Your finished loop will look like this:
Tips: Don't worry if you don't get it right away - it will take a few practises to get the feel for making loops.
You may find the flat nose pliers helpful to push the very end of the wrap against the stem so it lies flush.
1. You will need: Round nose pliers.
2. Grip the wire with your pliers, and make a 90 degree bend. Remember you will need to leave enough wire for a tail to make the wrap.
3. You may need to change the grip of your pliers - position them to the size you want your loop to be, and then continue to pull the wire into a loop.
4. Grip the tail of the wire, and wrap it around the base of the loop.
Your finished loop will look like this:
Tips: Don't worry if you don't get it right away - it will take a few practises to get the feel for making loops.
You may find the flat nose pliers helpful to push the very end of the wrap against the stem so it lies flush.
Making a Loop
How to make a loop in wire.
1. You will need: Round nose pliers. (And wire!)
2. Grip the wire with the pliers and make a 90 degree bend where you want the base of the loop to be. (This will be against the beads if you are making a drop using a headpin, for example.)
3. Your wire will look something like this.
4. Using the end of the pliers, grip the end of the wire and start to roll it up - this will ensure you get a nice smooth loop.
5. Your wire will now be like this.
6. Grip the wire further down the pliers and continue to roll the wire over them toward the bend.
Your finished loop should look something like this:
Tips:
Don't worry if it doesn't come out perfectly first try - you'll get used to how far down the pliers you need to grip to make the loop.
Sometimes I find it easier to cheat and make the loop first (start at picture 4), and then put the bend in afterwards!
If you want to make consistently sized loops, you can mark your pliers at intervals so that you always go to the same spot to curl the wire.
1. You will need: Round nose pliers. (And wire!)
2. Grip the wire with the pliers and make a 90 degree bend where you want the base of the loop to be. (This will be against the beads if you are making a drop using a headpin, for example.)
3. Your wire will look something like this.
4. Using the end of the pliers, grip the end of the wire and start to roll it up - this will ensure you get a nice smooth loop.
5. Your wire will now be like this.
6. Grip the wire further down the pliers and continue to roll the wire over them toward the bend.
Your finished loop should look something like this:
Tips:
Don't worry if it doesn't come out perfectly first try - you'll get used to how far down the pliers you need to grip to make the loop.
Sometimes I find it easier to cheat and make the loop first (start at picture 4), and then put the bend in afterwards!
If you want to make consistently sized loops, you can mark your pliers at intervals so that you always go to the same spot to curl the wire.
Monday, 18 November 2013
Basic Materials and Tools
You can start making jewellery with just a few basic
tools and materials.
Here is what you will need:
Pliers
There are a lot of specialist pliers and tools for making
jewellery, however you can get started with just three basic items; Round nose
Pliers, Flat nose Pliers, and wire cutters.
With these three you will be able to manipulate wire,
open and close jump rings, and attach fastenings to your creations.
Beads
There is endless choice when it comes to beads! From acrylic to pearls, handmade glass to papier-mâché;
you can make them yourself or buy them from any craft supplier.
To start with I’d recommend looking for a selection of
small beads and a few larger focal beads.
Use the smaller beads to fill the space between your main
beads, creating texture and balance to your creation.
Know your beads:
Rocailles – These are also known as “seed” or “spacer”
beads. They can vary in size from around
1mm to 5mm. (These are the round beads
in the picture.)
Bugles – Also used as “spacer” beads, these are long thin
tube shaped beads. (See the gold and
blue beads in the picture.)
Stringing materials
What you use to string your beads depends entirely on
what look you want to go for! As you can
see from the picture, there are a whole host of materials available. If you want to start in a hurry, have a look
in your sewing box and find some embroidery thread or elastic!
Clear nylon is perfect to make “floating” necklaces. “Tiger tail” is a nylon coated wire which is
good for hanging heavier beads on and keeping a stiffer shape, however if you
bend harshly it can kink. (Softflex and
Beadalon are brands of nylon coated wire which apparently don’t have this
kinking problem – I haven’t tried them out yet though, so I’ll let you know
when I do.)
Rattail is a silky cord which is often used in knotting
projects.
Waxed cotton, leather and suede and are excellent choices
for where you want some colour from the stringing material to show through –
for example if you are making a simple pendent.
Wires can be twisted and bent into shape. Memory wire holds its shape – so you don’t
need fastenings to use it. (However you
will need special pliers to cut it!)
Have a look around for what suits your style best!
Wires
You will find many different types of wire to use. Most jewellery is made from "half hard" wire.
Wire can be measured in gauges or millimetres. The higher the gauge number, the thinner the wire. I would recommend with getting two to three different thickness of the same colour wire if you are interested in wire techniques, as this will allow you to experiment. Plain copper wire is the cheapest for practising with, but it may be fun to also get some coloured "craft wire"!
Findings
Essential to making your jewellery!
Clasps
Clasps can come in many forms, plain or decorative. For starting out I’d recommend lobster claw or
trigger clasps, as these are sturdy and versatile for many projects.
 |
| Trigger or "lobster claw" clasps in the bottom left corner. |
Jump Rings
These are wire rings that come in a variety of sizes and
colours (and shapes too, they don’t have to be a circle!)
You will use these for attaching dangles, clasps, and
hooking clasps onto to close your pieces.
Crimp beads
These are special beads which you can squash onto your
threading material to attach a clasp. If
you are using wire, you won’t need these as the jump rings can be attached
directly to the wire. For anything else
these will stop your beads falling off!
You can get special pliers to change the shape of the
crimps. (More on that later!) but for
now you can simply use your flat nose pliers to squash them on.
 |
| Thread a crimp bead, loop your stringing material back around and back through the crimp and then squeeze closed with pliers. |
Calotte crimps
These will give an end to your ribbons, cotton or other materials. You can also use them on wire.
 |
| Basic Calottes can be pressed on with flat nose pliers |
 |
| Clam style calottes allow you to thread the stringing material through a small hole and then close it over to hide knotted ends or crimp beads. |
Head and Eye Pins
These are used to make dangles and drops.
Earring Hooks
For if you want to make earrings!
Beading Tray
Helps you to make designs without your beads rolling off everywhere!
This is a very basic one that came in a jewellery making kit - you can get much better ones with various measurements on them for helping you to space out the beads and create the stringing length you want.
Helps you to make designs without your beads rolling off everywhere!
This is a very basic one that came in a jewellery making kit - you can get much better ones with various measurements on them for helping you to space out the beads and create the stringing length you want.
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